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Guide

How to compare siding quotes: a homeowner checklist

Two siding quotes for the same house can differ by thousands of dollars – often because they do not cover the same work. Here is how to line them up, what to ask and which red flags to watch for.

By Local Siding Network · Updated

Start with the same scope

The Federal Trade Commission’s advice for hiring a contractor starts with written estimates from several firms – and warns that the lowest bid may not be the best choice. For siding, a fair comparison is only possible if every quote covers the same work. Before you compare prices, make sure each quote answers these questions:

  • Which walls are included? (whole house, or specific elevations, gables, dormers, additions)
  • Is the old siding removed, and how many layers? Is disposal included?
  • What weather-resistive barrier goes on, and is it taped at seams and openings?
  • How are windows and doors flashed and trimmed?
  • Are soffit, fascia and gutters included, replaced or reinstalled?
  • Are corner posts, J-channel, starter strips and accessories included?
  • Who pulls the permit, and is the fee included?
  • How is cleanup handled (magnetic sweep for nails, dumpster placement)?

Compare the products, not just the material

“Vinyl siding” covers a huge range. So does “fiber cement.” Ask each contractor to write down:

  • The manufacturer and product line
  • The profile (lap, Dutch lap, board and batten, shakes) and exposure
  • For vinyl: the panel thickness and whether it is insulated
  • For fiber cement and engineered wood: primed or factory-finished, and who paints
  • The color and the trim material and color

A lower quote with a thinner panel or primed boards that you still have to paint is not the same as a higher quote with a premium panel or factory finish.

Ask how hidden problems are priced

The biggest surprises in siding jobs are under the old siding: rotted sheathing, damaged framing, asbestos-cement shingles and lead paint. National cost guides put sheathing and framing repairs at roughly $500 to $5,000. A good quote explains:

  • How rot will be priced (per sheet of sheathing, per hour, or a set allowance)
  • How you will be told and asked to approve extra work before it is done
  • Whether the home is suspected to have asbestos siding and how it would be handled
  • For pre-1978 homes: whether the contractor is an EPA lead-safe certified firm

Warranties and credentials

  • Manufacturer warranty: which document, and is it registered by the installer?
  • Workmanship warranty: how long, what it covers, in writing
  • License or registration: Pennsylvania and New Jersey require registration; Maryland, Virginia, Michigan and Oregon require a license; Florida requires a license check on myfloridalicense.com
  • Proof of liability insurance (and workers’ compensation if they have employees)
  • Manufacturer certification, if claimed

Payment terms

The FTC advises against paying for an entire job up front and notes that a common arrangement is roughly one-third at signing, one-third midway and one-third at completion. Some states limit deposits or add rules – Pennsylvania, for example, requires a written contract for home improvement jobs of $500 or more and gives you three business days to cancel, and New Jersey likewise allows cancellation until midnight of the third business day. Tie the final payment to completion and your walk-through, and never pay in cash without a receipt.

Timing and scheduling in the quote

A good quote also says when: the expected start date, how long the work will take and what happens if weather or material delays push it back. Ask whether the price is fixed if the start slips by a few weeks, and whether special-order products are already confirmed with the supplier. If you need the work done before a certain date – a sale, the start of storm season, winter – put that in the contract.

Red flags

  • Pressure to sign today, or a “price only good if you sign now”
  • Door-to-door crews after a storm offering to “handle your insurance”
  • No license or registration number, or one that does not match the company name
  • A one-line quote with no product line, scope or warranty details
  • Large cash deposits, or a request to pay the full price before work starts
  • Unwillingness to pull a permit where one is required
  • A price far below the others with no explanation

Understand the price structure

Siding quotes are usually built from a few pieces: a price per square (100 square feet) of siding installed, plus separate lines for tear-off, trim and accessories, soffit and fascia, wrap and flashing, and allowances for repairs. National cost guides put installed siding at roughly $3 to $12 per square foot for vinyl, $4 to $13 for engineered wood and $5 to $14 for fiber cement. If one quote seems cheap, check whether it is missing a line the others include; if it seems expensive, ask what it includes that the others do not.

Also check the measurements. Contractors measure wall area differently – some subtract windows and doors, some do not. If the square footage differs a lot between quotes, ask each contractor how they measured.

A simple comparison table

ItemQuote AQuote BQuote C
Walls / area covered
Tear-off and disposal
Product line, profile, thickness/finish
Weather barrier and flashing
Soffit, fascia, gutters
Rot repair pricing
Permit
Workmanship warranty
Payment schedule
Total price

Fill it in for each quote. Differences in the total usually show up as differences in the rows above – and that tells you which quote is really the better value.

After you choose

  • Get the final scope, products, price, schedule and warranties in one signed contract – not in emails or verbal promises
  • Confirm the permit is issued before work starts
  • Keep a copy of the contractor’s license or registration and insurance certificate
  • Agree in writing how change orders are approved and priced
  • Before the final payment, walk the whole house with the contractor and check trim, flashing, clean-up and any damaged plants or property
  • Keep invoices and product information for the warranty and a future sale

Questions to ask on the walk-through

  • What worries you most about my walls, and why?
  • Can you show me a job you finished with this product?
  • Who will be on site every day, and who is my contact?
  • How long will the job take, and what happens if weather delays it?
  • How will you protect my landscaping, windows and my neighbor’s property?

Sources

FAQ

Common questions

How many siding quotes should I get?

The FTC recommends getting written estimates from several firms. For siding, two or three detailed quotes for the same scope are usually enough to see what a fair price and a good scope look like.

Why are siding quotes so different?

Usually because they do not cover the same work or products: tear-off, weather barrier, flashing, soffit and fascia, panel thickness or factory finish, rot repairs and warranties all move the price.

How much should I pay up front for siding?

Avoid paying the whole job up front. The FTC notes a common arrangement of about one-third at signing, one-third midway and one-third at completion. State rules may add limits.

Is the cheapest siding quote a bad sign?

Not necessarily, but compare the scope line by line. A low quote often leaves out tear-off, flashing, soffit and fascia, or uses a thinner panel. If it covers the same work and products, it may simply be a good price.

What should a siding contract include?

The contractor’s name, address and license or registration number, the full scope and products, start and completion dates, the payment schedule, who pulls permits, how changes are handled and the warranties.

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