A short history
Aluminum siding was widely installed in North America from the 1940s into the 1970s. It was marketed as a permanent, fireproof, paint-free alternative to wood, and whole post-war subdivisions were built or re-sided with it. Rising energy and material costs made it less popular in the 1970s, and vinyl took over. Today, aluminum is most common on post-war ranches, capes and bungalows in the Midwest and Mid-Atlantic – Metro Detroit, Ohio, Pennsylvania, the Philadelphia and Baltimore suburbs – often covering the original wood siding or asbestos-cement shingles.
How aluminum siding ages
- Chalking and fading. The factory finish breaks down in sun and rain and leaves a chalky powder when you rub it. This is cosmetic, but it means the protective coating is wearing out.
- Dents. Aluminum does not crack like cold vinyl, but hail, balls, ladders, car doors and lawnmowers leave permanent dents.
- Peeling paint. Siding that has been painted may peel if the surface was not cleaned and primed properly, and aluminum moves with temperature differently from paint.
- Loose pieces and failed trim. Old caulk, loose J-channel and gaps at corners let water behind the siding.
- Hidden problems. What matters most is the wall underneath – rot at sills and the bottom of walls, missing house wrap and old layers such as asbestos-cement shingles.
Option 1: Clean and paint
If the aluminum is mostly flat, firmly attached and the wall behind it is sound, painting can give it a new look for less than replacement. Published national figures put professional cleaning and painting of aluminum siding at roughly $4,000 to $6,300, with about $5,700 typical for 1,500 square feet (Fixr). The siding must be washed, the chalk removed, and a primer and exterior paint suitable for metal applied. The catch: paint on aluminum needs repainting every several years, so over a decade or two the cost can approach that of new siding.
What a good paint job on aluminum includes
- Washing with a mild detergent to remove dirt, mildew and chalk, then rinsing and drying completely
- Checking a test spot: if the old finish still rubs off chalky after cleaning, more preparation is needed
- Spot-priming bare metal and areas where old paint peeled, with a primer suited to aluminum
- Two coats of quality exterior acrylic paint, applied in the temperature range the paint maker specifies
- Re-caulking gaps at trim and openings where appropriate
Very dark colors absorb more heat and make the metal expand and contract more, which can stress the paint film; many painters recommend staying close to the original color value.
Option 2: Repair
A few dented or damaged pieces can sometimes be replaced, but matching is hard: aluminum siding is rarely made today in the old profiles, and faded colors will not match new pieces. Some contractors salvage pieces from a less visible wall to patch the front. Repairs make sense for small, isolated damage, not for a house with widespread wear.
Option 3: Replace
Replacement makes sense when the siding is widely dented, chalky or peeling, when you want to stop repainting, or when there are signs of water damage behind it. It also lets the installer remove old layers, repair the sheathing, add a weather-resistive barrier and flash the windows properly – things many aluminum-sided homes never had. Nationally, HomeAdvisor reports whole-house vinyl jobs typically costing about $6,375 to $18,249; in the Metro Detroit and Pittsburgh areas, local averages for vinyl projects are around $9,000 to $10,000.
What to replace it with
- Vinyl is the most common replacement: low cost, no painting and many colors. Choose a thicker panel for durability.
- Insulated vinyl adds a thin layer of foam, stiffens the panels and suits older homes that feel drafty.
- Fiber cement gives a painted-wood look, does not dent easily and lasts 50 years or more, at a higher price.
- Engineered wood offers a wood look at a moderate price and needs paint.
Our materials comparison covers the trade-offs in detail.
What is under the aluminum?
On many post-war homes, aluminum was installed over the original siding. Before you sign, ask the contractor to check what is underneath – they can remove one piece in an inconspicuous spot. Common findings:
- Wood clapboard – often in good shape if it stayed dry, sometimes rotted at the bottom
- Asbestos-cement shingles – must be handled according to state and local rules; see our asbestos siding guide
- No house wrap – common on older homes; new wrap and flashing are important parts of the job
- Lead paint on old wood trim and siding in homes built before 1978 – the contractor must follow EPA lead-safe rules when disturbing more than 20 square feet of painted surface
Should old layers come off?
Most installers recommend removing aluminum rather than covering it: it lets them inspect the wall, keeps window and door trim at the right depth and avoids adding weight and thickness. Removal and disposal typically add $1,000 to $3,000 nationally on an average home. Aluminum is also recyclable, and some contractors factor scrap value into the job; ask how they dispose of it.
Aluminum and electricity: a safety note
Because aluminum conducts electricity, damaged wiring, fixtures or outlets on an exterior wall can energize the siding. Home inspectors watch for this, especially around exterior lights and meters. If you ever feel a tingle when touching the siding, stay away and call an electrician. During replacement, the crew should take care around the service entrance and exterior fixtures.
Is it worth replacing before you sell?
Buyers and inspectors notice dented, chalky aluminum. Nationally, the 2025 Cost vs. Value Report found vinyl siding replacement recouping about 97% of its cost at resale and fiber cement about 114%, though returns are lower in some older, lower-priced markets. If you plan to sell soon, a professional cleaning and paint can be a cheaper cosmetic fix; if you plan to stay, replacement usually pays off in lower upkeep and a drier wall.
Questions to ask a contractor
- Will you remove the aluminum, and what do you expect to find underneath?
- How will you handle rot, asbestos shingles or lead paint if found?
- Which weather barrier and flashing will you install?
- What product line and thickness are you quoting?
- How do you dispose of or recycle the aluminum?
Sources
- InspectAPedia: Aluminum siding inspection, repair and painting
- InterNACHI: Aluminum siding inspection
- Fixr: Cost to paint aluminum siding
- HomeAdvisor: How much does vinyl siding installation cost? (national)
- HomeAdvisor: Vinyl siding installation costs in Detroit, MI
- HomeAdvisor: Vinyl siding installation costs in Pittsburgh, PA
- Journal of Light Construction: Cost vs. Value Report 2025 (national)
- U.S. EPA: Renovation, Repair and Painting Program for contractors
- This Old House: Siding replacement cost (2026)